I honestly have no idea why I had the interest to watch Riding Giants, a documentary about the history of surfing or even how I heard about it. My knowledge of surfing is pretty minimal and it mainly focus's around my interest in Quicksilver and the boys who wear it but needless to say, Riding Giants is one of the best documentaries I have seen. I highly HIGHLY recommend it. Yet I will have to admit that I was going to turn it off after the first ten minutes, which is when I asked myself why I am watching this? It gets BETTER. Much better actually as the history and the amazing facts unfold. And then enter big wave riding and well.. its purely spectacular. The history is fun and all but my excitement about the movie revolves around the massive waves, the little boy giggles that the surfers emit when talking about them, and their daredevil, out of socities norm attitude. It all started in Hawaii by a Hawaiian it turns out and has become a multi-million dollar industry with boys and girls of all ages heading out to sea (paddling at some areas of the world) for more than 2 hours to get to these particular waves before riding a 10 foot wall of water. Seriously. I honestly couldn't get over the monstorous size, viciousness, and just sheer horror of these things. I now have the biggest interest to
1. try small scale surfing (now 10 foot waves) and 2. see some 10 foot waves.
As it turns out, they are only in a few places in the world and they all have nicknames. Mavericks off of Half Moon Bay, Jaws in the Hawaiian Northshore, Impei, some off the coast of South America, Japan, and even France. They are really remarkable as is this movie. And some quotes from the movie:
"Riding a way is a form of flying. There is a real sense of flight. It's you, your surfboard, your trunks, and nature."
![]()
"Next to my wife and daughter, there is nothing else in life that brings out this passion." - Laird Hamilton, big wave surfer of today.
"There are only two people ever who have walked on water. They are God and ... (wait for it, wait for it) surfers."