I ate at Jewel Bako Friday night with J&M. Located in the East Village on East 5th street, Jewel Bako means Jewel Box. This Michelin one star clearly stands out on east 5th like a diamond in dirt, unless of course you notice the other restaurants by the same owners dotting the neighboring streets as well. But Jewel Bako is clearly the favorite and the star. There are two rooms that each are lined with bamboo and some funky lighting that creates the sensation you are in a tunnel and the light at the end is the sushi chef. The old chef Tatsuya Nagata, who worked at Bouley, was supposedly a site to behold as he wouldn't allow a plate or a waterglass to remain unattended for more than a few seconds. The restaurant is great. Incredibly fresh delicious sushi, hip appealing ambience, and a very attentive helpful staff. And what I am about to say may save you a thousand dollars.
I have come to believe (given experience) that there are three types of sushi: excellent, good, and horrifying. When the sushi is excellent there is just a certain level and understanding that what comes from the sushi bar and the back kitchen is going to look the same. The sushi (and other Japanese items) at Masa and Jewel Bako are the same. The fish is flown in from Tsukiji fish market. It is unreal fresh, tastes the same, and the sushi chefs make funky and challenging rolls but it is ultimately the same. Yes, the experience of going to Masa is unparalleled but if I were to choose a restaurant to return to, expecting something entirely different, Masa wouldn't be the choice. They do very similar things with the fish and tempura and etc. They are both excellent but unlike French food or Italian food at the 3star level, there is only so much to be done with it. When it is horrifying, it will look and taste the same as well, no matter which restaurant you get horrifying sushi in. So Jewel Bako stands out now as a great restaurant but it won't once I get to the next awesome sushi place because ultimately they are sorta all the same.
Comments