Sunday through Friday, the Spotted Pig, an intimate gastropub in
Greenwich Village, functions as a clubhouse for a certain breed of
discreet celebrities like Maggie Gyllenhaal because it feels less like
a Hollywood “it” restaurant than an intimate neighborhood cubbyhole,
safe from gawkers. Then there’s Saturday, when even one of the owners can’t deal with the place. “The Spotted Pig is not cool on Saturdays,” said Ken Friedman, an owner of the restaurant. On Saturdays, Mr. Friedman said, tourists and suburbanites routinely trek in and wait in line hoping for a glimpse of a celebrity huddled over sheep’s ricotta gnudi. The throngs became so bad that management broke down and hired security just for Saturdays. Neighborhood people and celebrities alike have mostly ceded the night, Mr. Friedman said. At best, he said, they will “last for a couple drinks and then storm off in a huff.”
Saturday has long been considered the uncoolest night for going out by dedicated clubgoers and those who fancy themselves hipper than thou. And changes in Manhattan night life over the past decade have only made city-dwellers more disenchanted with that night. Quality-of-life crusades by consecutive mayors have polished away New York’s gritty edge. Palaces of mass excess that have sprung up in West Chelsea and the meatpacking district lure revelers from far and wide. So insiders have increasingly run for cover. For status-conscious New Yorkers, Saturday has become synonymous with hordes of pleasure dilettantes wearing gelled hairstyles and quaffing Red Bull, creating hourlong lines at clubs that city dwellers may line up for on Thursday or even Monday, but will not get within five stretch-Hummer lengths from on Saturday. Instead, Netflix and Vietnamese takeout sounds good, or maybe that new Bond movie. It’s a night that people accustomed to quoting Andy Warhol or Diddy may summarize by invoking another New York luminary: Yogi Berra, who said, “Nobody goes there anymore, it’s too crowded.”
So what do agoraphobic Manhattanites do on everyone else’s Big Night?
“It’s the night you’re low-key and just enjoy your friends, catch up,” Ms. Peterson said. “If I was to go out on a Saturday night, it would be to a friend’s house. I would never go to a club — not because I want to be away from the riffraff, or because I think I’m better. But during the week, you’re busy, so during the weekend, you need the chance to unplug.”
“People in the suburbs, it’s their chance to come in, have fun and sleep the next day,” she added. “We’re on the pulse, so we can do it anytime.”
Candace Bushnell, the party-hopping author of novels about the high life, said that for her and her husband, the dancer Charles Askegard, Saturday night offers a chance to do what those who don’t juggle invitations the rest of the week do at night. That is, watch television. “I wish the networks would get with it and understand that we need some really good programming for Saturday nights because there’s nothing on,” she said. “And that’s probably the one night when New Yorkers are home watching TV.”
As a party night, Saturday historically has everything going for it.
Named for Saturn, the Roman god of agriculture (his wife, Ops, was the
goddess of plenty), Saturday carried connotations of a bountiful
harvest after a week of toil. For Christian Europeans of the Middle
Ages, Saturday night was the evening they could indulge in wine and
feasting before returning to piety and abnegation on the Sabbath.
Five
centuries later in New York, when every night can be a party night, the
one most favored by all the latter-day toilers in the fields is a must
to avoid. For high society, it has always been a night off from the
black-tie circuit — an evening spent at a second home in Water Mill,
N.Y., or Palm Beach, Fla.
Of course, the Saturday-shy New Yorkers who do go out on the town that night often do so with reservation — and reservations.
Last
Saturday, four Manhattanites in their early 30s were huddling over a
low table downstairs at Buddakan, the cavernous pan-Asian restaurant in
the meatpacking district. “During the weekends, you get a lot of
clutter, if you will,” said Brian Kirimdar, 30, an investment banker.
He and his wife, Ashley, tend to hide out in restaurants on Saturdays,
avoiding all but a few of the Chelsea clubs. “You don’t find too many
bridge-and-tunnel people at Cielo or Marquee,” he said. “You really
have to pick and choose.”
Indeed, it is no accident that clubs
like Marquee, its upstairs V.I.P. room packed with models even on
Saturdays, and Stereo, known for its Nikes-only sneaker policy, are
more outsider proof.
“No cologne, earrings or hair gel,” said
Michael Satsky, an owner of Stereo, standing outside the velvet rope of
his club on West 29th Street around 1 a.m., explaining his weekend door
policy.